Gravitas Pour Homme - My Dream is Becoming Reality

It is January 2020 and we are excited to be putting everything together to start shipping Gravitas Pour Homme out to those who ordered via Kickstarter.

The last month or two has seen us receive great video reviews from YouTubers like AC from Smells Good, Wafts from the Loft, The Fragrance Apprentice, Smurfygurly and Daver from the Fragrance Bros.

The written review from Miguel Matos on Fragrantica website was another great moment for us.

It has been a long road from conception to the imminent release of the fragrance. Meetings with potential backers and trips to the Cotswolds to meet perfumer John Stephen were punctuated by a steady stream of videos by creative director Dan Naughton on the MrSmelly1977 YouTube channel and much behind the scenes work on sourcing the packaging for the product.

With several YouTubers now releasing fragrances we are excited to be part of this trend but also happy that we have a very distinct brand which is centred on classical perfumery and an English sense of elegance.

The name Gravitas Pour Homme was chosen to convey the sense of maturity and confidence that we hoped the fragrance would convey. Of course, men of any age can wear the fragrance as can women too!

The notes we selected with John Stephen are some of the most quintessential fougere accords and, whilst we cannot claim to have entered any unchartered stylistic territory, we feel the perfume stands alongside some of the best aromatic fougeres currently available. There is also something new and unique about this classically themed Extrait de Parfum.

The fresh tones of bergamot and mandarin are underpinned by aromatic lavender in an arresting opening. Smooth cardamom mixes with spicy coriander and pepper in the heart of the fragrance. The base of patchouli, oak moss, ambergris and vanilla is classically masculine with an undertone of seductive sweetness.

Reviewers have compared the fragrance to some of our favourite classic masculine scents and we are happy to be mentioned alongside some of the best niche fragrances. However, what is clear is that different people experience the fragrance very differently and draw different comparisons. We feel that this is due to the refinement and complexity of this enigmatic and captivating creation.

The engraved gold plaque that we have selected for the label on the bottle is suitable for a fragrance named Gravitas. So too is the heavyweight engraved gold lid and the simple yet elegant bottle design. The box we have designed is simple and attractive with the baroque logo we chose proudly displayed alongside the script.

We are very excited to get our hands on the finished product and to ship it to our first customers. 2020 will see us looking to bring this wonderful scent to new customers around the world. Also, we are already in the process of composing the next release from Naughton & Wilson which will be revealed soon.

Watch this space!

Beautiful Bergamot and Iris - Gentleman Givenchy Cologne

I didn't have high hopes for Gentleman Givenchy Cologne. It feels like only yesterday that the historic French fashion house released Gentleman Givenchy (2017) and confused everybody by continuing to sell Givenchy Gentleman, first released in 1974. The 2017 release was decent but didn’t excite me very much. Gentleman Eau de Parfum from 2018 was very enjoyable but rather similar to Dior Homme and Valentino Uomo in its use of a prominent Iris note.

Hence, when I first sprayed Gentleman Cologne (as we shall now refer to it) I was expecting something that smelled nice and fresh and safe. Well, it is indeed all of those things, but the big surprise is that it is also vibrant, elegant and even rather compelling. When I checked who the perfumers were it started to make sense. Nathalie Lorson and Olivier Cresp have impressive track records and have just added an affable and charming fresh scent to their respective CVs.

These are the notes for Gentleman Cologne:

TOP: BERGAMOT, LEMON, PETITGRAIN

MID: ROSEMARY, IRIS, VETIVER

BASE: AMBROXAN, MUSK

By the way, it is an eau de toilette even though it is called a "Cologne". Everybody does it nowadays: Creed's new Aventus Cologne is an eau de parfum. Cologne is now a style not a designation of perfume concentration.

The fragrance opens with a juicy and effervescent burst of crisp and natural smelling citrus. The iris note is very noticeable right from the start and creates a scent that fans of the similarly zesty Dior Homme Cologne will surely enjoy.

The musk and vetiver in the base create a respectably long lasting but understated personal aroma that somehow manages to feel modern, youthful and timeless all at once. I’m a huge fan of Monsieur de Givenchy, which was first released in 1959 and serves a similar purpose in my fragrance wardrobe. That one has a rather more old fashioned feel. Gentleman Cologne achieves a similar effortless elegance with a contemporary yet grown up and sophisticated feel. It does however hang on to a little of that green herbaceous undertone that I find so delectable in old school fresh masculines.

The charming bottle design with its white label suggests the crisp white shirt one might like to spritz this juice onto. I could happily take this scent on a summer holiday and wear it every day. I’d be equally comfortable wearing it to work or using it after the gym.

If the idea of a beautiful combination of iris, bergamot, vetiver and musk appeals to you then you should definitely investigate this commendable release from Givenchy.

The fragrance comes in two sizes:

50ml £49.00

100ml £69.00

Elegant Sophistication in a Bottle - Milano Cento Him (Eau de Toilette)

Some fragrances from smaller houses have the good fortune to receive a rave review from a respected perfume critic such as Luca Turin or Miguel Matos. Milano Cento Him seems to have drawn the short straw in that the fragrance’s most vocal online proponent is Mr Smelly!

Milano Cento was first released in the UK in 1989 but disappeared from the shelves sometime in the early 1990s. Fast forward to 2016 and the fragrance was revived and re-released as Milano Cento Him. I first stumbled across it at Roullier White in London on a sniffing spree and knew at first sniff that this scent was “a bit of me”. The simple but elegant bottle design and the Italian name appealed as did the retro barbershop aroma that stood out as one of my favourite discoveries that day. Before long I had my own bottle and I’ve been enjoying it ever since.

These are the fragrance notes:

Lemon, Bergamot, Petit Grain, Lavender, Rosemary, Basil, Clary Sage, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Clove, Cinnamon, Amber, Musks

Advert for the original 1989 release.

The opening of the scent feels familiar and unique at the same time. The citrus top notes are clearly present but the herbaceous supporting players and warm undertones of spices are also immediately apparent. Nothing stands out and the overall effect is of one gloriously fresh, vibrant, soapy and reviving accord.

Fragrance categories are always a contentious business but I would say this one falls firmly in the aromatic fougere genre. Fans of Rive Gauche Pour Homme by YSL, Sartorial by Penhaligon’s and Houbigant’s Fougere Royale will find much to enjoy here.

The development of the scent on skin is not dramatic but the verdant aromatics subside over time to leave a warm and reassuring base of amber and musk. Milano Cento Him performs very well with admirable tenacity and noticeable but not overbearing projection in the air.

This is a perfect scent to spray on a spring evening whilst wearing a crisp white shirt and embarking on an afternoon or evening out in good company. If a smell can instil a sense of optimism in a person then I think Milano Cento Him achieves this. The lovely and natural smelling green and soapy opening and the comforting warm yet clean base all say “life is good” and that’s an accomplishment for any fragrance.

For fans of barbershop style fragrances with sophistication and subtlety, I think this is a must try. Milano Cento Him has a slogan: "Keep the memory alive....." and the fragrance certainly has a retro feel but does not feel dated. If you enjoy scents with a whiff of nostalgia and a bright breeze of freshness and optimism then this chic and elegant scent is worthy of your attention. The price of just £29.50 for the 50ml Eau de Toilette and £49.50 for 100ml is an absolute steal. Try it if you can!